100 Challenger Tips and Tricks

Dodge Challenger

200+

Tips & Tricks

2008 - 2012

Web page created 07/17/09

Last updated 1/24/2012
(c) 2009-2012 M. W. Davis

Some or many of these tips and tricks you may already know of, some you would never have discovered.
Some info listed in the information following is in fact in the 2008 - 2011 Challenger's Owner's Manuals, -but- for some reason many people just cannot find it. Some of the information is specific for the R/T or SRT8 model or universal across the Dodge LC and/or LX platform.

Depending on EVIC (CNN) software versions some of the EVIC tips work, some don’t but there is a variety of different ones to try on your vehicle.

This list will be expanded as time goes by and I compile collected information or folks pass tips onto me.
Also included below are some frequently asked questions on our Challengers and very good and hard to find documentation.

I also have now listed the compilation into categories and sub-category listings to aid in helping structure this growing list.

If you have a tip or see a typo or have updated information, send me an email via the link at the bottom of this page.

This page is a free "public service" to all late model Challenger Owners and enthusiasts.

To quickly "search" this document using a keyword or phrase, use your CTRL-F (Search/Find) feature in FireFox or Internet Explorer browser(s).

Here are the current following general "main" categories for listed information;

1. Vehicle Quick Reference

5. Engine

9. Transmission and Related

2. Electrical and Related

6. Interior and Related

10. Misc., Aftermarket & Catalog Items

3. MyGig and NAV/RBZ Radio related

7. Products and Uses

11. Video Documentary, etc.

4. Exterior

8. Wheels, Tires & Suspension

Categories;

(1) Vehicle Quick Reference;

            Diagnostics and related;
                   Tip:1   How to Display/Decode Diagnostic Trouble Codes
                   Tip:3   Extended EVIC Menu Access
                        Tip:4   Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display
                        Tip:7 Odometer Stick Pin Button Options
                        Tip:19 EVIC Compass Calibration
                        Tip:12 Disable Seat Belt Reminder
                        Tip:15 ESP and Cruise Control
                        Tip:17 Cruise Control Operations
                        Tip:21 Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning
                        Tip:24 Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)
                        Tip:25 Top Speed Display on the R/T
                        Tip:26 Turn Signal Warning
                        Tip:27 Door Lock Modes
                        Tip:30 Extended EVIC trip pin trick
                        Tip:31 Keyless Entry Start and CEL
                        Tip:33 Cluster Range Diagnostic. (Works on all LX models)
                        Tip:34 Odometer Trip button on non EVIC
                        Tip:38 Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:
                        Tip:51 Event Data Recorder (EDR): What you need to know!
                        Tip:84 Speedometer Verification (Extended EVIC)
                        Tip:86 Dodge Challenger Instrument Cluster "Self Test" Procedure
                        Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)
                        Tip:95 Remote Start Function Inhibitors!

Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)

Tip:148 Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC)

Tip:164 Emergency or Valet key use and VTSS

            Documents - Manuals, Dealer Brochures, Sales Documents, etc.
                        Tip:23 Free Dodge Owners Manuals
                        Tip:57 Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.
                        Tip:71 TSB, RRT and RECALL’s (General terminology)
                        Tip:78 DODGE Acronyms Decrypted
                        Tip:96 What does the term FOB, KEYFOB or FOBIK mean?
                        Tip:102 2009 Dodge Challenger Final Sales Figures

Tip:153 Dodge Challenger TSB, RRT and Safety Recall List

Tip:171 NHTSA Door Safety Label Info (FMVSS)
Tip:174 NHTSA complaints for Dodge Challenger

            Fluid Specifications
                        Tip:47 HOAT Engine Coolant!
                        Tip:54 Challenger Fluid Capacities - SPECIFICATIONS
                        Tip:185 Rear End Lubrication/Service Interval

            Fuse Locations and Types
                        Tip:55 R/T and SRT Electrical Distribution Center Information

          Hoisting and Jacking Warnings
                        Tip:53 HOISTING: Challenger Lift Points, Proper-Safe Hoisting

Jump Starting
Tip:52 Jump starting Challenger - How To and Warnings

          Vehicle Information, VIN decode, etc.
                        Tip:97 VIN PLATE DECODER
                        Tip:83 Vehicle Build Date

Tip:104 Dodge Challenger Parts Manuals 2008 - 2011

Tip:149 International Control and Display Symbols (Chrysler/Dodge)

Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual

(2) Electrical and related;

          Tip:2 Start Pushbutton Removal
            Tip:5   Wipers - QuikWipe
            Tip:6   Quick Lane Change
            Tip:8   Headlight Flasher
            Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights)

            Tip:20 Watching EVIC while fueling
            Tip:22 Trunk OPEN operations
            Tip:28 Disable ESP/Traction in R/T
            Tip:29 R/T and SE ESP "Key Tricks"
            Tip:37 Windows "Express Down" using FOBIK.
            Tip:41 DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How to ACTIVATE
            Tip:44 Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) Tip
            Tip:46 Smart Window Recalibration Procedure
            Tip:49 Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?
            Tip:50 Automatic Unlock Doors on Exit Programming
            Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse
            Tip:61 Challenger HORN operations
            Tip:63 Headlights On with Wipers (Available Auto Headlights Only)
            Tip:64 IPOD Integration cable goes where?
            Tip:70 Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)
            Tip:80 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights Turn On
          Tip:85 PCM SETTINGS KEEPER
            Tip:88 Mopar Electrical Connectors and Repair Kits site
            Tip:89 Dodge Challenger CAN BUS Databus Communications Modules
            Tip:94 Challenger Replacement Light Bulbs

Tip:106 HomeLink Wireless Control System
Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations

Tip:114 Personalize U-connect

Tip:117 KeylessGo and Keeloq Encryption/Cipher

Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration

Tip:120 EVIC Chime Stack

Tip:123 KeyLess Go Ignition/Pushbutton functions

Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)

Tip:128 Dash Power Plug Modification

Tip:133 Challenger CHIME WARNING SYSTEM

Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info)

Tip:143 How to Adjust When Auto HID Headlights turn on

Tip:145 USB power adapter/charger via Cigarette lighter plug

Tip:152 Dual Engine Bay Lighting Mod

Tip:156 Battery Maintenance and short/Long term vehicle storage

Tip:162 FOBIK and PEM Radio Frequencies

Tip:165 PDC - Ignition Off Draw Fuse and usage

Tip:168 Low Fuel Indicator Light

Tip:172 New "Passive Entry" addition to Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) features for 2011

Tip:175 Steering Control Module (SCM)

Tip:177 ESP and Electronic Stability Program FAQ’s

Tip:191 How to wire AUTO ON heated seats when remote started

Tip:201 Is it possible to add the KeyLess GO System to an R/T?
Tip:204 FOBIK (Key Fob) disassembly, battery change.

(3) MyGig and NAV/RBZ Radio related;

Tip:18 NAV Unit destination tip

Tip:48 Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?

Tip:58 2010 Owner's Manual Addendum/Radio Fuse
Tip:87 MyGig Nav Voice System Tip

Tip:90 The Official and Unofficial MyGIG Information and Support Site's

Tip:130 Stuck CD in MyGig Multidisc player?

Tip:186 RBZ Radio loading multiple CD's issue and GraceNotes

Tip:187 MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode"

(4) Exterior;

Tip:13 Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!
Tip:11 Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning

            Tip:62 Locking GAS Cap
            Tip:66 Functional Factory Hood Scoops for R/T’s
            Tip:67 Challenger Splash Guards
            Tip:68 Where to Find Your Vehicle Manufacture Date
            Tip:77 How can I remove the factory stripes on my R/T?
            Tip:82 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T: Suspension Article (Edmunds)
            Tip:103 Washing and Draining Water from Door Mirrors

Tip:116 R/T and SRT front chin spoiler replacement

Tip:127 Push/Pop Pins, Plastic Rivets and Clip Replacements!
Tip:154 Installing Wing Spoiler on Dodge Challenger

Tip:160 Rams Head front hood badge removal and replacement

Tip:163 Dodge Challenger OEM touch up paint(s)

            Tip:184 Center Taillight Assembly Removal
            Tip:189 Dodge Challenger Body Repair Manual
            Tip:202 Rear Taillight bulb replacement procedures

(5) Engine;

Tip:9 Factory Oil Filter Installation
Tip:39 Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s

            Tip:43 ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization
            Tip:45 MDS Reset & Calibration
            Tip:69 Challenger Spark Plug Info!
            Tip:75 Temperature Sensor Support on HEMI Engine
            Tip:79 What is the Best Oil Filter for our Challenger?
            Tip:98 Cooling Flow - 5.7L/6.1L HEMI Engines

Tip:108 The PCM - PowerTrain Control Module

Tip:119 TORQUE SPEC - Engine 5.7L and 6.1L

Tip:122 PCM MONITORED COMPONENT

Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light and how it works

Tip:134 EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM INTEGRITY MONITOR (ESIM)

Tip:141 Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on Dodge Challenger

Tip:155 Dyno and other speed/gear related software

Tip:158 FilterMag, Trans Pan Mag and Magnetic Oil Plug systems

Tip:159 EFI: Mass Flow vs. Speed Density (Fuel/Air Management)

Tip:166 Fuel System, Fuel Pump Module

Tip:167 Fuel Correction or PCM adaptive Memories

Tip:169 Modes of Operation for the NGC (PCM)

Tip:178 ETC - Electronic Throttle Control

Tip:182 Copper Spark Plugs vs. Iridium and Platinum:
Tip:193 Oil fill and overflow warning!

(6) Interior and related;

            Tip:14 Extending Sun Visor
            Tip:16 Trinket Tray Removal
            Tip:32 Center Console Lid Trick
            Tip:35 Air Conditioner.
            Tip:36 Sun Roof Open Modes
            Tip:42 Adding Cabin Air Filter
            Tip:48 Radio Identification Codes and Single or 6 Disc CD Player?
            Tip:65 HOT SURFACE WARNING - Under dash!
            Tip:111 Push Button Start Overlay Trim
            Tip:112 Electro Chromatic Mirror disable on Reverse feature
            Tip:115 Rear Fold-down center arm rest removal

Tip:135 Challenger Trunk Cargo Net Mod

Tip:136 The Custom Ultraviolet Sunshield

Tip:137 Change your steering wheel badge!

Tip:138 Courtesy Light Wiring Information (Interior Lighting Mod)

Tip:150 Door Panel Removal procedure

Tip:157 Removal of CHMSL (center high mounted stop Light) or 3rd brake light.

Tip:161 Moldy looking Dash in cold weather?!

Tip:170 Gauge Cluster Removal and Custom Installations.

Tip:173 Installing Radar Detector using Mirror Power for no-clutter wiring.

Tip:181 Emergency Brake - Matching Pedal Cover!

Tip:190 Dodge Challenger Custom Leather Interior Upholstery Upgrade kit

Tip:196 BLUE LED Foot well Lighting

Tip:205 Custom Embroidered Headrests, etc.

(7) Products & Uses;

Tip:73 FREE MOPAR Desktop Screensavers!
Tip:74 Great Challenger Clothing, Jackets, Hats, Tee shirts, Gifts and much more!

Tip:81 Wireless USB Dodge Challenger Computer Mouse!

(8) Wheels, Tires, and Suspension;

            Tip:40 Centering Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS Calibration. (steering Angle Sensor)
            Tip:56 TPMS TIPS: Tire Pressure Monitoring System FAQ’s
            Tip:72 TPMS and Setting proper tire air pressures (cold)
            Tip:76 Challenger SRT and RT Wheel Lug Info
            Tip:92 Challenger Spare Tire(s) and SRT Adaptor/Spacer
            Tip:101 Brake Repair on Challenger/Charger

Tip:113 Tire Tech Information - Calculating and Reading Tire Sizes/Dimensions

Tip:144 Changing brake pads on BREMO brakes (SRT8)

Tip 183 Dreaded Front Suspension Pop!

Tip:194 SRT Front Springs on R/T

Tip:195 Hotchkis 22107 - Hotchkis Performance Sway Bar Kit
Tip:203 Installing larger rear rubber on your R/T!

(9) Transmission and related;

          Tip:59 NAG1 Dipstick and Transmission Level Checking (AUTO)
            Tip:60 SKIPSHIFT: Modification to eliminate 1-4 shifting (Manual).
            Tip:99 NAGI Automatic Transmission, Description and Detail.

Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)

Tip:110 The T-Handle Shifter Upgrade for Challenger (Auto)

Tip:121 Transmission Control Module (TCM) - Limp Mode(s)

Tip:124 TCM Adaptation - NAG1 Only

Tip:129 NAG1 Automatic Transmission Fill

Tip:139 Manual 6-speed transmission drain and refill (TR6060)

Tip:140 Manual Gear Shift Tip(s)

Tip:146 Rear End Service/Lubrication RT/SRT
Tip:147 Automatic Transmission (NAG1) Cooling bypass valve

Tip:151 Autostick mode turns off MDS.

Tip:179 WA580 (NAG1) Automatic Maintenance and Mercedes Parts

Tip:180 MOPAR Performance MTCM - vs- Stock TCM and warnings;

Tip:188 New Product: High Performance NAG1 Transmission Kit

(10) Misc. , Aftermarket and Catalog items;

            Tip:93 Help on Sticking/Freezing Windows and Door Seals!
            Tip:100 BMC BILLET CATCH-CAN DRAIN COCK MODIFICATION
            Tip:105 Dodge Challenger Accessories – Genuine MOPAR Catalog

Tip:131 Custom FOBIK covers

Tip:132 Uconnect Phone Compatibility List

Tip:176 Front Clip Removal for Black Chrome Grill Mod

Tip:192 What is MOPAR?

(11) Video Documentary, etc.;

Tip:197 National Geographic Channel Dodge Challenger MegaFactory Documentary
Tip:198 Dodge Challenger (Classic) Freedom Commercial and its making

Tip:199 Dodge Channels 2011 Challenger Keyless Enter-N-Go Video Documentary

Tip:200 Dodge Channels 2011 Dodge Challenger Homelink System Documentary

CLICK HERE for access to the Top 200+ Challenger Tips'n Trick listing list in sequential order.

Tip:1
How to Display and Decode Diagnostic Trouble Codes:

How to Display OBD-II Trouble Codes On Instrument Cluster
(Works with or without EVIC).

            1. Get in the car, close the door.
                        Perform steps 2-6 fairly quickly (less than 3 sec's total time).
                           (The key should not return to the OFF position through this next sequence!)

            2. Turn key to 'ON' position
            3. then back to 'ACC'
            4. then to 'ON'
            5. then back to 'ACC'
            6. then to 'ON'

If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer.

For instance an "INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH" error will set a generic code of P0113.

Many guys forget to hook their IAT sensor up after they install a new intake filter system and crank the engine.

A CEL on the dash instrument display will immediately result.

Once the codes have been displayed, you'll see "-----". If there are no trouble codes, the dashes will be the first item displayed.

After a few seconds, the display changes to "-dOnE-".

Once you have recorded the DTC (diagnostic trouble code), use the chart below to decode:

The DTC code is made up of 5 digits.

The figure below maps the structure or composition of a DTC. With this information it is little easier to troubleshoot a DTC without
knowing the exact description of the actual code.

Important Note!

Generic OBD-II codes start with P0xxx.

OEM MFG DTC Codes start with P1xxx.

Keep in mind that CEL (Check Engine Light) status is for Powertrain (Engine/Transmission) and is primarily for EMISSIONS status functions. Thus when getting a "Check Engine Light" on the dash, this means engine is out of emissions compliance or an important sensor is out of range or has a malfunction.

NOTE----> Leading LETTER indicator on DTC coding meaning;

            P = Powertrain
            B = Body
            C = Chassis
            U = is a communication/Network fault

Here is a link to all standard generic OBD-II DTC codes: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

DTC Codes that start with P1xxx are not generic and are OEM Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep specific.

Common Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep Specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes are listed at: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/

Complete listings of all Dodge OEM mfg DTC codes for late model vehicles are listed at these links below:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html

http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html

http://www.hsperformance.com/?p=2070

Dodge Engine Light Questions And Answers website!

http://www.engine-light-help.com/dodge-check-engine-light.html

Use web link below for more detailed information, latest OBD updates, OEM information, recent Dodge OBD-II Topic Forum and much more.

http://www.obd-codes.com/

Tip:2

Start Pushbutton Removal

The push button "Start Button" cap cover can be easily removed with your fingers by using a fingernail (or key in FOBIK) under the bottom (6-o'clock) and pulling the button towards yourself. The FOBIK can then be inserted into the opening and used like a standard to start in the car by turning it to the right noting the switch positions.

This can be used in the case of a "key fob not detected" message or a "push button start" failure.

NOTE:

The battery in the FOBIK can be completely DEAD and the WIN ignition module will power the FOBIK when inserted.

The key positions are;

1. Lock

2. Accessory ON

3. Ignition ON

4. Start Engine

Technically, you can still use the "push button" start with the button cover removed if you have slender fingers.

I teased my wife early on after my Challenger purchase by saying the car was programmed to only recognize me and I stuck my little finger into the push button hole with the cover removed which allowed me to press the inside of the WIN assembly simulating the start button and started up the car. I pull my finger out and showed her my pinky and said, "see the car only recognizes me!". Of course she looked puzzled for a second or two then read my eyes and called "BS" on me...

The WIN (Wireless Ignition Node) is shown and explained in the Challenger Owner's Manual.

For 2009 R/T it is in the section on "Things to know before starting your vehicle", page 12.

This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.246 ]

Tip:3

Extended EVIC Menu Access

If you have the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) option on R/T's, you can activate its hidden "Extended Menu" mode by holding down both the steering wheel COMPASS and MUSIC NOTE buttons together for 6-8 seconds anytime the key is in the ON position (engine running/car moving or even engine off). Cycle through the series of various displays (such as a large-font digital speedometer) by using the up/down arrow switch on the left of the steering wheel.

Q: What does the "compass" button look like?
I have a 2010 R/T 28M package with Uconnect/iPod (I think its sound group I or II) and don't have a button with
a "compass symbol" on it.

A: Yours may have the "Home" button. This was a running change in the production model 2010's - some model's had
the compass button while others got the home button that has the house icon instead.

There are many other EVIC tips and tricks described in this document (Example Tip:75 , Tip:84, Tip:120, etc.) that reference to or contain more information about features in EVIC. Search this document for "EVIC" related items!

EVIC and Radio Steering Wheel controls;

If a set up on the EVIC is showing an extended menu screen (ex: Digital Tach and Speed) and is left this way, the steering wheel buttons controlling the Radio will not work.
Hit the home button to clear EVIC secondary menu settings and the Radio controls will work again.

Note:

It's not wise to start changing things unless you're confident that you know exactly what you are doing or trying to accomplish.

To get back to the normal EVIC display operation, press the COMPASS (or Home) button once again.

Here is a youtube video describing and showing extended menu access for 0-60 mph/sec timer;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45IdnQK9uy0

Note: 2011 Model Challenger (2011 EVIC Screen) access.

How to enter the extended EVIC screen ( Easter Eggs) on a 2011 Challenger. Have the ignition on, vehicle running and EVIC at the temperature/compass screen;

Holding the UP arrow for at 8-10 seconds then immediately release and hold the DOWN arrow until these screen(s) appear. This can take a several seconds.

They (Dodge) seem to have made it more difficult, instead of easier to get to the extended performance menu screens than previous model years.

This tip also documented in the 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg.166 ]

Tip:4

Enable/Disable Economy Mode Display

Depending on EVIC software version;

On R/Ts with automatics (24J package) built after Nov. 17, 2008 that have the MDS (Multi-Displacement System), there is a way to enable/disable the Economy Mode (ECO) indicator and/or change it to an icon. Using the "extended" EVIC display (mentioned above) scroll through until you find Personal Settings, then toggle down a few clicks and you'll find "ECO Display."

There you will find the option to turn the ECO notification ON or OFF.

Note:

This does not turn MDS functions off, only the indicator light. There is also an option to change the ECO that appears on the EVIC when MDS is activated to an icon such as a leaf, or a globe, or variations of a few ECO icons.

Tip is documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.161,172]
Tip is documented in 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.187]

Tip:5

Wipers - QuikWipe (or Mist Feature)

IF you are driving in light rain/misty conditions, and you just want the wipers to swipe ONCE, gently push -IN- on the signal/wiper lever (along length of shaft). The wipers to will swipe only ONCE and uses no windshield washer fluid.

Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 127]

Tip:6

Quick Lane Change

If you actuate the turn signal lever either way and let go quickly without pushing it far enough to "latch" into the
fixed position for signaling, the turn signals will flash three times and stop. This is good for fast merging into traffic
and freeway quick lane changes.

This "tip" is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 124]

Tip:7

Odometer Stick Pin Button

Pressing the stick pin button on the trip odometer for a moment will cycle the odometer display between Total miles, Trip A

and Trip B. If you DON'T have the EVIC option, the display cycle will also include the outside temperature. If either of the Trip

odometer's are currently displayed and this knob is held in for a second or two, that trip odometer will be reset to 0.0 mi.

This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 158 ]

Tip:8

Headlight Flasher (Flash to Pass)

You probably know by now as with most LX Chrysler platform vehicles, the high-beam headlights are switched on by pushing the turn-signal lever towards the dash until it latches, but also when in low-beam position, pulling the lever TOWARDS you will activate the high-beams momentarily until you release. This "flash to pass" feature is good for letting that slow driver in front of you to move right or yield.

Note:

Pulling back on the lever does NOT turn off the fog lamps. this is a quick way to get the highest or MAXIMUM light forward/ahead.
Otherwise, pushing the lever forward to "lock" the high beams on will also turn the fog lamps off.

More information on this in your owner's manual.

Tip is documented in 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.153]

Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 124]

Tip:9

Factory Oil Filter Installation

The factory oil filters will seem to have been installed by a gorilla with a 30 inch pipe wrench! They are VERY difficult to remove as they are put on with a pneumatic cap wrench at the factory to ensure they do not leak. IF you do not have the proper removal tool you should seriously consider having the first oil change done by the dealer, even if you do it yourself every other time!

NOTE:

Strap wrench's just will not work, you will need the large socket type "G" or "H" style end cap wrench either 1/2" or 3/8" drive. Lay a Scott paper towel in the cap wrench to tap it onto the bottom of the STOCK filter. This will ensure a very tight fit so the cap wrench will NOT slip. Make sure you get the right size the with the correct number of "flats" to match the stock filter unit (93mm, 15 flutes). Once you get the filter off, you can use a small ball peen hammer to tap the cap wrench off the bottom of the old filter.

And if you have the 5.7 LTR Hemi (Auto), you absolutely must INSIST on 5W20 oil only. MDS requires this to work correctly.

Here is a link to a OIL FILTER CAP WRENCH, the type you want to use with your stock (93mm, 15 flute) and replacement oil filters;

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-54780-93mm-Cap-Wrench/dp/B0009OR97Y

Also, Your local AutoZone or Advance Auto should have generic oil filter wrenches (Size D, 93mm, 15 flute) metal cap wrenches.

When installing a new oil filter, here is the Dodge factory manual spec's;

Description: Description: Description: OilFilterInstall_LXServMan.jpg

For the absolute best oil filter for your Challenger available on the market, see: Tip:79

Tip:10

DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights)

Note: Daytime Running Lights are required by Canadian Law. Not required under US law.

Would you like driving with your headlights on in the daytime for safety reasons (it's the law in Canada)? Think about having your Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) enabled!

It turns your dual filament parking lamp bulbs (the yellow/orange ones) to the (higher Candle Power) high filament intensity whenever the headlights are OFF. This will have to be done at the dealer to get them "activated" because it requires the car to be hooked up to the StarScan/StarMobile Tool and some sales codes updated.

With the press of a few buttons on StarScan (on 2010 and newer models use StarMobile), you're ready to go.

The Vehicle VIN must be updated with sales code of added accessory in order to enable system functionality using the DealerCONNECT (Dealer.net website) and StarSCAN/StarMobile or newer WiTech diagnostic tool.

See Tip#41 for additional details for assisting Chrysler/Dodge dealer service techs to do this.

Many dealerships will not know what you are talking about exactly but this tip will show them.

Tip:11

Fuel Cap Hanger and Low Fuel Warning

Inside the fuel door is a little hook in which to hang your fuel cap, by the cord so that the cap doesn't hang down against car.

Below is a clip from the 2010 challenger Owner's Manual;

Description: Description: Description: gascaphook.JPG

Fuel Filler Cap — R/T Model

NOTE:

When removing the fuel filler cap, lay the cap tether in the hook, located on the fuel filler door.

This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 321 ]

Low Fuel Warning!

Description: Description: Description: FuelSymbol_InstrPanel.JPG

Low Fuel Light;

This light will turn on and a single chime will sound when the fuel level drops to 1/8 tank. Based on a max tank level of 19 gal, this is approximately 2.3 gals of fuel left.

Now on a typical MPG of 15-20 MPG, you have about 30 miles of driving left before you run out of gas.

Estimated driving distance, the DTE display will change to a text display of _LOW FUEL_. This display will continue until the vehicle runs out of fuel. Adding a significant amount of fuel to the vehicle will turn off the _LOW FUEL_ text and a new DTE value will display.

Also of note is the fuel filler cap location indicator arrow on the Instrument Cluster next to the LOW FUEL warning light. Fuel fill is on the left side of the vehicle. This arrow points to the side the filler cap is on. Note the picture below (1) Fuel Gauge and low fuel warning indicator light.

Description: Description: Description: InstrumentCluster_Prem.JPG

Tip:12
Disable Seat Belt Reminder Chime:

Quick Procedure;

Step 1. With the ignition switch in any position except On or Start, buckle the driver side front seat belt.

Step 2. Turn ignition switch to ON position and wait for the seat belt indicator reminder function to conclude (about 6 sec’s).

Step 3. Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.

Step 4. Turn the ignition switch to any position except On or Start to toggle the belt-minder feature from its current setting

(from active to inactive, or from inactive to active).

A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully completed.

(This does NOT disable the INITIAL chime, only the nagging repeats every few seconds).

(Full Length procedure and text from the 2009 Challenger R/T owner's manual pages 43-44)

Enhanced Seat Belt Use Reminder System (BeltAlert_)

If the driver’s seat belt has not been buckled within 60 seconds of starting the vehicle and if the vehicle speed is greater

than 5 mph (8 km/h), the Enhanced Seat Belt Use Reminder System (BeltAlert_) will alert the driver to buckle the seat belt.

The driver should also instruct all other occupants to buckle their seat belts. Once the warning is triggered, the BeltAlert_

will continue to chime and flash the Seat Belt Reminder Light for 96 seconds or until the driver’s seat belt is buckled. The

BeltAlert_ will be reactivated if the driver’s seat belt is unbuckled for more than 10 seconds and the vehicle speed is greater

than 5 mph (8 km/h).

BeltAlert_ Programming

The BeltAlert_ can be enabled or disabled by your authorized dealer or by performing the following steps:

NOTE: Chrysler LLC does not recommend deactivating the BeltAlert_.

1. With both doors closed, and the ignition switch in any position except ON or START, buckle the driver’s seat belt.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine. Wait for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to

turn off and then proceed to the next step.

NOTE: You must perform the following steps within 60 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position.

3. Within 60 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver’s seat

belt at least three times, ending with the seat belt buckled.

NOTE: Watch for the Seat Belt Reminder Light to turn on while unbuckling the seat belt and turn off while re-buckling the seat belt.

It may be necessary to retract the seat belt.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position. A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the programming.

The BeltAlert_ can be reactivated by repeating this procedure.

NOTE: When the BeltAlert_ is deactivated, the Seat Belt Reminder Light will continue to illuminate as long as the driver’s seat belt is unbuckled.

Tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 43 ]

Tip:13

Ditch that Hood Prop Rod!

If you are like me, you got tired fast of having to use the prop-rod to keep your hood open. You can buy Mopar hood struts to do the job properly for about $55.
A five minute install and if you look under the hood, you'll notice, near the hinge, that you already have one-half of the ball joints installed on the hood.

To install, start the bolt provided into the hole in the fender and apply pressure while tightening with your deep socket wrench (metric). The bolt will "self thread".

Mopar Part number's

68035556AA, LH

68035557AA, RH

6507889AA, Studs ( need 2 ea)

or MOPAR Strut Kit available for Challenger RT/SE part# 82212094 (includes both struts and ball mounts.)

NOTE:

Take care and look. As the Struts are NOT the same.

They are marked RIGHT and LEFT on respective pkg's so do pay attention to which is which before unwrapping!

Tip:14

Extending Sun Visor!

Note that if you detach the sun visor from the clip holding it to the headliner, you can not only swivel it around and down to your side window but it also has a short hidden extension that slides out along the shaft.

Additionally, a smaller plastic visor "extension" pulls out from inside of the visor to block the sun from the gap between the visor and center rear view mirror.

Look along the visor edge for the little thumb or finger depression and then pull out.

Tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 78 ]

Tip:15

ESP and Cruise Control

NOTE:
In order to ensure proper operation, the Electronic Speed Control System has been designed to shut down if multiple Speed Control functions are operated. This means that when ESP (Electronic Stability Program) "activates", it will turn "OFF" your cruise control. You will lose any previous SET speed.

If this occurs, the Electronic Speed Control System can be reactivated by pushing the Electronic Speed Control ON/OFF button and resetting the desired vehicle set speed.

To Activate

Push and release the ON/OFF button located on the end of the Electronic Speed Control lever. The indicator light in the instrument cluster will illuminate to show that the speed control system is on. To turn the system off, push and release the ON/OFF button again. The system and the indicator light will now turn off.

Tip is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner's Manual, pg. 133

Tip:16

Trinket Tray Removal

All Challengers have a small trinket or change tray in front of the shifter area. Did you know that the tray liner is removable for cleaning?

As well as the bottom tray liner on the rectangular slot to the left of the cup holders.

This is documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg.399]

Tip:17

Cruise Control Operations

When using the "cruise control" system and going down a steep hill, the transmission will downshift to try to keep you close to your set speed.
Refer to your owner's manual for more detailed information on Cruise control operations.

It is also advisable not to use the cruise control while driving in the rain. Hydroplaning or hitting slick spots in the roadway can create a vehicle control issue while under active cruise control.

This tip is also documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 132 ]

Tip:18

Nav Unit destination tip

If you have the NAV unit, the easiest and quickest way to enter a destination (if it is a POI) is to enter the phone number! Scroll down to get to where it allows you to enter phone number (it is out of sight). The numeric keypad entry is faster to use than the full alpha keypad, you don't need to use the list of names (POI names or street names). And there are no collisions on the entry (exactly one destination comes up). It also enters the dashes automatically.

Also with the NAV Radio - You can program your destination, and begin route, with one button press.

Press Voice Command button
Say "Main Menu"
wait for prompt
Say "Navigation"
follow prompts and use voice commands to finish programming and beginning route.

Turn-by-Turn Navigation — If Equipped

When ON is selected, the Turn-by-Turn directions will appear in the display as the vehicle approaches a designated turn within a programmed route. To make your selection, press and release the FUNCTION SELECT button until “ON” or “OFF” appears.

Tip:19

EVIC Compass Calibration

If you have EVIC, holding down the Compass button for several seconds will place EVIC into a diagnostic mode for the compass which also allows you to reset its magnetic calibration (i.e. fluctuation between true north and magnetic north).

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 176 ]

Tip:20

Watching Evic while fueling

If you are equipped with the EVIC, if you leave the key in the "ON" position while fueling, you can not only watch the gas gauge rise, if you leave the EVIC in "Distance to Empty" mode, you can watch the numbers change as the tank fills.

Distance to Empty can be found in the normal/standard EVIC mode without having to go into the "extended" mode.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 174 ]

Tip:21

Turn Signal Bulbs Out Warning

If your turn signal is flashing at a faster rate for one side or the other, check the flasher light (front and rear) bulbs on that

side; one of your bulbs has failed.

The 2x (twice as fast as normal) turn signal flasher speed is a warning indication for one or more signal "bulbs out". This is typical of all “shunt” type electronic flashers, which monitor bulb/load current.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 24 ]

Tip:22

Trunk OPEN operations

You cannot open the trunk with either the "release" button on the dash or with the key FOB button until the automatic transmission is in the "PARK" position.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 34 ]

Tip:23

Free Dodge Owners Manuals

Need to look something up in the owner's manual?

Download it for free here (on this site, see link below) as a .PDF file! Just choose your year and model. It is FREE, Courtesy of Chrysler/Dodge. Create a short-cut on your Microsoft Windows desktop for ONE-CLICK access for speedy access.

You can use the SEARCH function in the Adobe viewer to find data in the owner's manual extremely fast!

Here is link to Dodge manuals: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/

Now, If you are the first registered owner you can get a "printed copy" of the owner's manual by calling;

1-800-992-1997 in the U.S.

1-800-387-1143 in Canada.

See Also: Tip:57 Documents - Owner's Manuals, Dealer/Sales Documents, etc.

Tip:24

Dash and Panel Lights Parade Mode (and other dimmer features)

If you like driving with parking lights or headlights on in the daytime, there is a Parade Mode (daytime brightness feature) of the dash and panel lights. Rotate the dash light dimmer control upward to the first detent to select it.

This feature brightens all displays such as odometer, EVIC and radio when the parking or headlights are on.

Interior “light dimmer” tips;

Other than dimming the Instrument cluster lighting and interior lighting, you can use the dimmer at different “positions”.

Dome Light Position

Rotate the dimmer control completely upward to the second detent to turn ON the interior lights.
The interior lights will remain ON when the dimmer control is in this position.

Interior Light Defeat (OFF)

Rotate the dimmer control to the extreme bottom OFF position.
The interior lights will remain OFF when the doors are open.

Parade Mode (Daytime Brightness Feature)

Rotate the dimmer control upward to the first detent.
This feature brightens all text displays such as the odometer, Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC), and radio when the parking lights or headlights are ON.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 126]

MyGig Unit and Parade mode tip:

MyGig NAV Screen "AutoMode" (via Vin57) See Tip:187 MyGig and Parade Mode

Tip:25
Top Speed Display on the R/T

Depending on EVIC version note the following;

If you are viewing the "extended" EVIC display and you push the trip odometer stick pin button once, the EVIC will display your top speed recorded since you started the car.

Also, Gaining access to stored TOP SPEED in EVIC. While in "digital speedometer" mode:

DISPLAY TOP SPEED

Press/Hold function select button ">" to toggle between current speed and top speed achieved.

RESET TOP SPEED

Quickly press and release the function select button when Top Speed is displayed.

Note, the top speed will not change unless you have it displayed (Speedometer Mode).

Tip:26

Turn Signal Warning

When you leave your blinker on for a while (more than 1 mile/1.6Km) and forget it while driving, the vehicle will chime (in sync with blinker) to warn you!

So, "turn the signal blinker off" as people might think you have Alzheimer's.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 160 ]

Tip:27

Door Lock Modes

If you hit the door lock switch on the armrest while the door is open and the car is running, it will NOT lock the doors.

You can unlock them but it will not let you lock the doors to prevent you from accidentally locking yourself out.

This and other door lock modes are explained in the owner's Manual.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 30 ]

Tip:28

Disable ESP/Traction in R/T

To partially disable the ESP/Traction Control in an R/T, press and hold the ESP button while in park for about 5-6 seconds.

The ESP beeps and instrument panel (Mr. Squiggly) shows bypassed. It's now partially disabled until you turn off engine.

NOTE:

With the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T Classic, no "key trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 286 ]

Tip:29

R/T and SE ESP "Key Tricks"

To completely disable the R/T ESP/Traction Control. While moving at more than 15 mph, you turn the key to START and hold it for a few seconds until the system chimes. (Don't worry, the starter won't engage). The chimes indicate that the ESP is now completely disabled until you turn the engine off. This is known as the "key trick."

R/T FULL ESP OFF

Also for anyone wondering what the key trick is, simply hit the ESP button once... you don't need to hold for 10 sec's or whatever, that doesn't work. Just hit it once like you normally will, the squiggly lines will pop up.

Now start driving and once you get above 15 mph simply turn and hold the key as if your trying to start up the car.
Hold the key in that position for about 5 sec's.

Don't worry your starter won't try to crank over because it already knows the car is running. Now the first thing
you'll notice is that your radio will turn off and back on along with anything plugged into your cigarette lighter like
a radar detector or whatever.

IF you look at your dash you will have Mr. Squiggly. (ESP 1/2 off) and your ABS light (Brake) will be ON. You are
now in total OFF mode. Have fun and be careful as you have no brake assist.

Braking will not be as good as you may have become accustomed to.

So now all your traction control and ESP are fully OFF and you can smoke tires till they turn into drag radials!
This is continued until the vehicle is stopped and IGN OFF/ON and Engine Start cycle is re-initiated

For SE models, all 2010 SE's have ESP, it's the 2009's without the popular option package that don't.

NOTE:

With the "Super Track Pak" on the R/T J or R/T Classic, no "key trick" is needed to get full off ESP.
While in PARK, press and hold ESP off button until the system chimes.

2011 Update: It appears that the "key trick" does not work for this model year. Looks like Chrysler has
made a hardware/software WIN module change and the trick only works for previous model years.

Tip:30

Extended EVIC trip pin trick

Depending on your vehicle's model year and EVIC software version;

While in the "extended" EVIC display, if you press the stick pin for the trip odometer and switch it to Trip B, your top speed will be revealed!

Take care, it "resets" with the arrow key.

Tip:31

Keyless Entry Start and CEL

If you have the push button start feature and your "check engine light" comes on, your FOBIK (key fob) remote start will work but it will only run for about 10 seconds, then stop. After that, you'll have to restart the car by removing the start button cover and insert/use the FOBIK as a key.

See Tip:142 Keyless Go Button (Tech Tip & Operation Info) for more specific documentation on Keyless Go System operations.

Tip documented in 2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
Tip documented in 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]

Tip:32

Center Console Lid Trick

Did you know that the center console arm rest adjusts forwards and backwards?
Just give it a nudge forward toward the dash to release and it will slide back and forth to your desired position.

WARNING NOTE:

Moving it all of the way forward partially covers one of the cup holders and it is no longer accessible.

This tip is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 147 ]

Tip:33
Cluster Range Diagnostic. (Works on all LX models)

1. Be sure key is set to the 'OFF' position.
2. Press and hold the 'Trip Meter Reset' button.
3. Turn the key to 'ON' position.

The gauges will step through the whole range.

If a gauge is seems to be "acting up" or not functioning, this is an fast way to see if it's a "sensor" (sender) or a Instrument Cluster gauge.

Tip:34

Odometer Trip button on non EVIC

On vehicles with no EVIC (the basis dash)- If you press the trip odometer button you will get your trip mileage, press again and you will get outside temperature.

Now press again to get your MDS or ECO/ECO ON mode dash indicator.

Tip:35
Air Conditioner.

If you press in the re-circulate air button (the one on the left that does not have the snow flake icon on it) it also starts the air conditioner and provides the coldest AC air.

This is due to AC being activated in "Re-circulate Air Position" with ONE single button press.

This "tip" is documented in the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 233]

Tip:36
Sun Roof Open Modes:

For those with sun roof there are two separate opening modes. The forward button on roof console is to open, farther most setting closes the roof (at position desired once released). The "middle" button, closes the roof and then the glass closes at front and raises up in back.

For more information on operation and calibration of the electrical control module see; Tip:118 Power Top Sunroof - Operations and Calibration

Tip:37
Windows "Express Down" using FOBIK.

Hit your UNLOCK button to unlock your doors and then about 1 second later, press OPEN again and HOLD it down. BOTH windows will come down to cool the car off.

Releasing the HOLD on the unlock button while windows are opening will STOP the windows open function in progress.

Great to cool off a hot car as you are approaching and unlocking it.

Please note the following;

This is documented in the 2008 and 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [ pg. 24 ] – Express Down Feature

This is documented in the 2010 Challenger Owner’s Manual [pg.23] and 2011 Challenger Owners Manual [pg. 24] but this feature is not called “Express Down”. This manual refers to this feature as “Remote Open Window Feature”.

All the above are located in the “Things to know before starting your vehicle”.

Tip:38
Reset the "Oil Change Required" message in the EVIC:

Unless properly reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

To turn off the message "temporarily", press and release the TRIP ODOMETER button on the instrument cluster.

1. Turn the key to "ON" but don't start the engine.

2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and release 3 times within 10 seconds.

3. In some cases, the EVIC may display "Oil change reset" as an acknowledgment.

4. Turn the key to OFF and you're done.

KeyLess Go setups?

For those who have the PUSH BUTTON START installed (Keyless Go), you can remove the start button and
use the FOBIK as a key to do the above or do the following steps below;

(a.) Do not press the brake pedal and press the Start button twice (EVIC will say IGNITION ON).

(b.) Press the gas pedal 3 times to the floor within 5 seconds.
Instrument Cluster (EVIC) will display "Oil Change Reset" as an acknowledgement.

(c.) Press the Start button once more to turn OFF the Ignition.

NOTE 1:

The next time you start the car the "Oil Change Required" message will be gone, until the algorithm for Oil Condition determines that you need to change your oil again.

Now, for this to work correctly in determining oil quality, RESET your EVIC immediately upon changing your oil so the internal algorithm is reset and restarted.
The vehicle cannot tell when you change oil and you need to clear/restart the monitoring setup to avoid erroneous oil change messages.

NOTE 2:
For those interest in how the "oil change" light actually works, look at this; Tip:125 Oil Change Required Light and how it works

This Tip documented in the following Challenger Owner's Manuals;

2008 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]
2009 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 162]

2010 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 177]

2011 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 190]

2012 Challenger Owner's Manual [pg. 200]

Tip:39

Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s

NGC (PCM) CLEAR PROCEDURE

- Open the cover on the TIPM (engine fuse block/center) and pull Fuse F2
(25A - Front engine TIPM Electrical Distribution Center) for a count of approximately 25-30 seconds resets (clears) the NGC's Adaptive memory.

For those that need a picture (there is a Fuse location on the lid of the TIPM) here is an overhead view

It is a 25 amp beige fuse! Fuse chart Fuse #2 says it is the NGC module feed.

-or you can -

- Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.
(This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. Reconnect the Battery Cable.

(pulling F2 in the TIPM is a lot faster and easier than disconnecting the battery)

- Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine!
- Turn Headlight “On”
- Turn Headlights “Off”
- Turn Ignition Key “Off”

Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

Cycling the headlights as listed will create a "short term" fuel adaptive learn period (50 start cycles).

Here's what it does exactly!

Pulling Fuse F2 resets;

- All PCM DTCs erased.
- All OBD2 monitor results erased.
- All "long term fuel trim adaptive" values reset to Zero.

Long term Fuel Adaptive trim will now start over the next 100 engine start cycles.

Cycle the headlights as described above will create a Short Term Fuel Adaptive trim table over the next 50 start cycles.

Driver Adaptives?

Driver Adaptive's and related fuel table trim is probably the least understood algorithm contained within the NGC - Next Generation Controller (also called PCM)

There are long term fuel adaptive trim (100 start cycles) and short term fuel adaptive trim (50 start cycles). The NGC looks at what the fuel requirements to operate are during "closed loop" operations. The fuel trim algorithm is slowly and gradually attempting to bring the fuel consumption to best suit driving conditions and optimize the MPG by feedback from O2 and other sensors.

Short term and long term fuel trim are also used in analyzing KR (Knock Retard) and attempting to have the NGC (PCM) calibrate the engine timing based on quality of fuel. With different quality fuels and octane's, the NGC tries to always adjust for the best engine timing (advance/retard) to protect the engine from knock or prevent detonation. The knock sensors on the HEMI engine are quite sensitive and can be considered to be "engine microphones".

What is Knock Retard?

Knock Retard (hereafter referred to as KR) is the response from the PCM to cylinder detonation. KR is the measure of the number of degrees of overall ignition timing advance that must be removed from the engine to prevent detonation from continuing, thus protecting the engine from damage.

What is REAL KR and what is FALSE KR?

Real KR is KR that grows with engine RPM and engine load. It depends entirely on detonation, which is dependent upon throttle position, IAT or MAF, MAP, engine load, engine temperature, and RPM. As RPM and engine load increase, the chance for KR (or higher KR) increases. As the vehicle shifts to the next gear, KR will usually make a small jump up as well due to the higher engine load.

False knock is characterized by a sharp spike to an immediately high value of KR followed instantly by the KR Recovery Rate. It doesn't grow with engine RPM or load, it jumps to a high value on throttle input and then recovers to a low value, or zero perhaps, as engine RPM continues to increase. Note that this is exactly opposite to the characterization of REAL KR. Remember, knock is simply specific noise detected by engine microphones. Because it happens to fall within the frequency of real KR does not necessarily mean that it IS real KR.

To learn more about "What is Knock" read this excellent and detailed write up below;

http://www.stlclubgp.com/tech/kr/

The PCM has the ability to do some rudimentary fuel tuning (all modern vehicles now do this) via "closed loop mode". It has two main modes of operation, closed loop and open loop. When the engine is started and heated up past 160 deg. F, the NGC (PCM) now goes into "closed loop" control whereby it takes feedback from sensors (ie. IAT, MAP, O2, Knock, etc.) and looks at the fuel efficiency and attempts to tweak out the current fuel tables to get the best MPG and engine efficiency.

Tromping the accelerator to the floor puts the PCM into OPEN loop where it now goes to fixed tables to do fuel mixture and o2 sensors are now bypassed.

So where does this wind up over time. Well, there is a number of "learn cycles" that The PCM goes into for fuel Adaptives, normal 100 start cycles, or a "quick learn" of 50 start cycles (using the headlight ON/OFF trick). During these times (cycles) fuel trim adaptive algorithms work on trying to get the best MPG. After the 100 cycles, the MPG magic is pretty much done until something is done to initial another "learn cycle" like clear memory.

These start cycles are a fixed "time-cycle" effort to build a fuel trim table and the algorithm will stop fuel trim after these 50 or 100 start cycles.

So if you have been driving around for a number of weeks, months in a laid back fashion, the PCM has learned this and attempted to get the best MPG for you and tuned down (slowly) performance. So, one day you tromp the gas hard or do some spirited driving and you notice the car "sluggish", or not quite as peppy as before. This could be the reason. Clearing out long term fuel table adaptive memory can sometimes help.

The PCM has a number of classes and types of internal memory. The fuel table Adaptive's are stored in volatile memory and when the fuse (F2) is pulled for at least 20-30 seconds, this memory is cleared and you can start over building a new set of Fuel Table Adaptive's for closed loop control (next 100 start cycles).

If you granny drive around town your car adapts to that type of driving. Then when you want to do a lot of quick aggressive driving the vehicle may seem sluggish and not "as responsive" as you remember. You may need to do something to the PCM called clearing driving fuel Adaptive's.

TCM Driver Adaptives?

Now, what about the Automatic (NAG1) Transmission and its stored driver adaptives?

For those who wonder about NAG1 (Auto) transmission driver adaptive's, that is another animal entirely and pulling F2 does nothing
whatsoever with the TCM (Transmission Control Module). if You have a Diablo Predator tuner, you are able to use this tool to reset
the TCM via menu option.

Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)

Owner FAQ's

Originally Posted by dodge man2

I understand what it trying to do, I'm trying to understand the nuts and bolts of what it does. What makes the car feel doggy and less responsive?
I know it shifts sooner. Does it pull timing, pull fuel, make the throttle move less with the gas pedal movement?
It is also my understanding it doesn't make any difference in full throttle operation, since it jumps into open loop, and that stuff is preprogrammed and doesn't change.

DM2;
Perhaps this will yield some additional understanding.

OBDII Emission Control Adaptive Strategy

What is fuel trim?

Fuel trim is a window that allows you to see what the PCM (computer) is doing to control fuel delivery and determine how the PCM's "adaptive strategy" is operating. The PCM on the Dodge Challenger is now referred to NGC (Next Generation Controller) as it is able to "rationalize" its inputs for improved diagnostics and response.

Why was fuel trim created?

In order for vehicle manufacturers to comply with EPA emissions regulations, catalytic converters were added to reduce tailpipe emissions. Catalytic converters need a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of approximately 14.7:1 to obtain the greatest emissions reductions.

Vehicle engineers designed closed-loop engine control systems to maintain that ratio, adjusting injector pulse width based on information from oxygen sensor and other inputs.

Short-term fuel trim (STFT) and long-term fuel trim (LTFT) are normally expressed as a percentage, and the ideal range should be within ±5%.

Positive fuel trim percentages indicate that the powertrain control module (PCM) is attempting to richen the fuel mixture, to compensate for a perceived lean condition. Negative fuel trim percentages indicate the PCM is attempting to lean out the fuel mixture, to compensate for a perceived rich condition. STFT and LTFT percentages are the adjustments made by the PCM to maintain the 14.7:1 ratio.

No matter what the drivability issue happens to be, the fuel trim window should be used first to check the STFT and LTFT parameters/values.

There are two basic fuel control systems used on most vehicles: Speed Density systems, which use rpm, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and barometric pressure (BARO) to calculate engine load, and Mass Airflow systems, which use the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and rpm to calculate engine load.

In both cases, the PCM begins with a standard injector pulse width calculation, based on various inputs and internal fuel cell tables.

The equation used by Dodge "Speed Density" OBD II vehicles to establish initial pulse width is: Injector Pulse Width = (RPM × MAP/BARO) × TPS × ECT × IAT × Battery Volts × O2 (Short Term x Long Term).

Once the vehicle is running and the engine control system enters "closed-loop", the PCM relies primarily on feedback from the oxygen sensor to determine if the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio is being maintained.

Think of "closed-loop" operation as a Sense-Decide-React sequence.

The PCM determines the base injector pulse width as described above.
The Sense phase begins once the system enters closed-loop, and is handled by the oxygen sensor.

In the Decide phase, the PCM uses the oxygen sensor data to determine if the proper 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio is being maintained. If the ratio is correct, the PCM decides that no change should be made to the injector pulse width. In this scenario, the React phase maintains the same injector pulse width. However, if the air/fuel ratio is 16.1:1 (lean) during the Sense phase, the PCM makes the decision to increase the injector pulse width to correct the lean air/fuel ratio condition.

In the React phase, the PCM commands the fuel injector to stay open longer. The Sense-Decide-React sequence continues throughout closed-loop operation, maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio.

During "closed-loop" operation, the PCM reports changes in fuel trim calculations via the OBD II generic data parameters short-term and long-term fuel trim. STFT for most vehicles will normally sweep rapidly in response to the oxygen sensor. In many cases, if you graph Bank 1 STFT and BlSl O2 sensor, you'll see the oxygen sensor go rich and STFT go lean to adjust the air/fuel ratio. The oxygen sensor will then go lean and STFT will go rich.

LTFT for most vehicles will remain more stable, adjusting over a longer period of time.

On some vehicles, if STFT has reached the specified limit, LTFT will change in a few seconds. On other vehicles it may take 15 to 20 seconds before a change occurs. The LTFT calculation is normally kept in memory, so the PCM is ready to use the last known injector pulse width following a restart. STFT will normally begin at 0% and adjust to the current conditions.

Both STFT and LTFT will normally reset when all trouble codes are cleared.

The LTFT calculation is kept in PCM memory so the PCM does not need to "relearn" the fuel trim calculation the next time the vehicle is started.

The PCM adaptive memory has fuel trim cells that will store data to add or subtract additional fuel at different rpm and manifold pressures, this fine tunes the fuel mixture as required, if the data is incorrect the vehicle will still run "bad" until it relearns (adapts) itself, resetting the adaptive memory resets this data back to 0 so it can relearn from there, and the vehicle will normally run better from the start.

Note that WOT operations (wide open throttle) operate on "fixed" fuel tables as opposed to closed loop adaptive tables.
Note here that Dodge Challenger with automatic and Dodge Challenger with manual transmissions are "tuned" differently.

Please note also, that you should not confuse NAG1 automatic transmission adaptive's with those of the PCM/NGC although they are similar in their "processes", but what they do is quite different.

Read more on the TCM and its operations at Tip:109 The TCM - Transmission Control Module (Detail)

Tip:40
Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)

On Disconnect of the vehicle battery;

You may need to do a SAS calibration if when restoring power your steering wheel and steering angle sensor get out of calibration.
This is where the steering wheel is centered, but the actual front wheels are not seen centered (electronically).

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time.

If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash continuously with no DTCs.

Step 1: Start car:
Center the wheels (not the steering wheel, but the actual front wheels need to be straight) then Turn OFF car, open door to kill electronics, wait
for 3 minutes for vehicle CANBUS to shutdown.

Step 2: Start car:
turn wheels full right turn and hold for a 10 Mississippi count.
turn wheels full left and hold for a 10 Mississippi count
turn wheels full right
turn wheels full left
Return to Center.

---
Note:
In the dealers StarScan tool, it directs you thru each step with a countdown timer of 10 seconds.. but the StarScan is not needed to

calibrate the SAS "Steering Control Sensors", all it is doing is walking you thru the above listed steps.

This applies to all models (SX,RT,SRT) of Dodge Challenger 2008 and above, as all have the SCM (Steering Control Module)
at the base of the steering column.

Note related item: Tip:91 Battery Reconnection Procedure (reset DDM, PDM, & SCM's)

Tip:41
DRL’s on CHALLENGER: How To ACTIVATE

DRL's (Daytime Running Lights) and Activation of.

This is where the inboard AMBER turn signals both come on bright and stay on while driving and properly switch OFF/ON during turn signals.

The bright amber lights highlight the vehicle for others to see it better during the day, hence the name Daytime Running Lights.

When you select headlights on, the DRL's switch off and AMBER turn signals now go to low power filament and will glow bright on lane

change indications as normal.

In Canada it is against the law to remove/disable the DRL on any vehicle 1990 and newer. Also all vehicles imported that are mfg 1990 and newer must have them. They are considered basic safety equipment- like brake lights or headlights.

Note to Service Tech's to Activate DRL's on the Dodge Challenger in the United States.

You do not have to Change COUNTRY code (ie. Canada, Unites States, etc.) to do this.

It is NOT in the vehicle Prep Area!

This is done in TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) Programming Options.

With StarScan (or with 2010 and newer StarMobile or WiTech) go into TIPM setup. Note: Do not use Wycliff for this!

Note: We can do this also for add on "fog lamps" on other models.

StarScan or StarMobile:
            ECU View --->
            TIPM/CGW --->
            Misc Functions --->
            Enable DRL - follow prompts.

Check the status of the DRL and see if its ENABLED. It is not listed as "Daytime Running Lights" but it is actually listed as "DRL" in the scan tool.

When vehicle is placed in gear and parking brake is in the OFF position, the DRL's will then automatically come on.

Q: Just to be clear: the orange (inner most) lights can be set to DRL mode following this procedure?
A: Yes, but only in gear, no parking brake on, it will turn on the turn signal element in the front lights only.

The following picture shows stepping through the different light operations (modes).

DRL enable conditions are as follows:

a. DRL’s switch OFF when EMER.BRAKE is ON, turn OFF EMER.BRAKE if on to test DRL’s.

b. DRL's switch OFF when headlights are turned ON.
c. Automatic transmission: Make sure the vehicle is in gear to activate as well.

d. Standard transmission: DRL's on when engine running, headlights off, EMER.BRAKE off.

Note:

IF your service technician at the Dodge Dealership tries to activate them on a system called Wycliff, it will NOT be possible.

Tell them they must follow the procedure noted above to get into the TIPM configuration and select the option there.

Many dealer tech's are not intimately familiar with all the TIPM configuration options.

Be patient and give them a written copy of the above step-by-step procedure.

See: Tip:10 DRL’s for Safety (Daytime Running Lights) for related DRL information as well.

Tip:42
Adding Cabin Air Filter:

Here is a link to the kit I used for this modification.

Passenger Cabin Air Filtration

http://www.moparsupercenter.com/passenger-cabin-air-filtration82209548.html

Now the kit comes with a new plenum box, but you shouldn't need to replace this as it is the same for vehicles with or without

the filter. You really only need the insert that holds the filter, the filter, and new retainer clips, all of which are included in the kit.

Cabin Filtration kit: ID:82209548

Aftermarket Replacement filters available: NAPA #4909 or Wix #24909.

Tip:43
ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:

Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again.

Note that the throttle body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior to every key-start.

PCM Zero/Span Throttle Calibration

Throttle Calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.

Throttle calibration can take care of these.

Procedure steps:

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.

(HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)

(On some PCM versions, Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.

Many drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive programming.

NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

NOTE: This procedure was a carry over from the LX (Charger) days and seemed to work on some early model Challengers.
Some folks have seen this work on some Challengers and others have seen nothing as far as any accelerator pedal characteristics.
With as many PCM software changes over the past several years, this procedure may now do nothing whatsoever. Some folks
say the whole thing is nothing but a myth. Some folks swear that it has helped them in making the accelerator pedal more
sensitive and more responsive.

Note the recent highlights from the Dodge Challenger SRT Engineer Chat sessions;

Highlights from 25 May 2011 - SRT Engineer Chat

Q: Technicians and service personnel who work on these fine platforms daily have confirmed there is no such thing as a “throttle recalibration” by simply slowly depressing and holding
     the accelerator pedal to the floor for a few seconds after key-on (no start). However the procedure, and the purported gains still permeate the internet stating (for example) they experience
     better "throttle response". The premise is that there is a hidden procedure that allows an end-user to alter or “recalibrate” their FBW throttle system (we are aware that the throttle body
     performs a self-diagnostic, full open/close, prior to every key-start).

Care to somehow put a stake in this rumor once and for all?

A: There is a throttle recalibration on the ETC (Electronic throttle Control) that can be run as a subroutine when in diagnostic mode (hooked up to StarScan).
No such means of doing this without a engineering/dealership hook up into OBD port.

Tip:44
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS).

VTSS – Vehicle Theft Security System, from the 2009 Challenger Owner's Manual

Pg. 18 - THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING YOUR VEHICLE

VEHICLE SECURITY ALARM

The Vehicle Security Alarm monitors the vehicle doors for unauthorized entry and the ignition switch for unauthorized
operation. If something triggers the alarm, the Vehicle Security Alarm will prevent the vehicle from starting and
provide the following audible and visible signals: the horn will pulse; the headlights will flash; the park lights will flash;
and the Vehicle Security Light in the instrument cluster will flash.

Rearming Of The System

If something triggers the alarm, and no action is taken to disarm it, the Vehicle Security Alarm will turn the horn off
after three minutes, turn all of the visual signals off after 15 minutes, and then the Vehicle Security Alarm will rearm

itself.

To Arm The System

Remove the key from the ignition switch and either press a power door LOCK switch while the driver or passenger
door is open or press the LOCK button on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter. After the last door is closed, or
if both doors are closed, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm itself in about 16 seconds. During that time, the Vehicle
Security Light will flash. If it does not illuminate, the Vehicle Security Alarm is not arming. In addition, if you open a
door during the arming period, the Vehicle Security Alarm will cancel the arming process. If you wish to rearm the
Vehicle Security Alarm after closing the door, you must repeat one of the previously described arming sequences.

NOTE:

• The driver’s door key cylinder and the trunk button on the RKE transmitter cannot arm or disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm.

• The Vehicle Security Alarm remains armed during trunk entry. Pressing the TRUNK button will not disarm the
Vehicle Security Alarm. If someone enters the vehicle through the trunk, and opens any door, the alarm
will sound.

• When the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed, the interior power door lock switches will not unlock the doors.

The Vehicle Security Alarm is designed to protect your vehicle; however, you can create conditions where the

Vehicle Security Alarm will give you a false alarm. If one of the previously-described arming sequences has
occurred, the Vehicle Security Alarm will arm regardless of whether you are in the vehicle or not. If you remain
in the vehicle and open a door, the alarm will sound. If this occurs, disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm.

If the Vehicle Security Alarm is armed and the battery becomes disconnected, the Vehicle Security Alarm will

remain armed when the battery is reconnected. The exterior lights will flash, the horn will sound, and the

ignition will not start the vehicle. If this occurs, disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm.

Tamper Alert

If something has triggered the Vehicle Security Alarm in your absence, the horn will sound three times when you

disarm the Vehicle Security Alarm. Check the vehicle for tampering.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR INSTRUMENT PANEL

21. Vehicle Security Light — If Equipped

This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and
then will flash slowly until the vehicle is disarmed.

Note:
See also Tip:70_Locking Challenger without enabling VTSS (Alarm)

Tip:45
MDS Reset & Calibration

1) You need a fairly long, open, safe, straight road for a WOT run to about 35 mph.

2) Get engine up to operating temp, engine running and car stopped place gear selector in "[D]". Bump it to the Left until in "[1]" display

in autostick mode.

3) Turn off all electrical accessories (except lights if needed).

4) Make a WOT run to 4500 RPM (about 35 mph), immediately remove foot from accelerator and do not depress the brake, let the vehicle

coast with the throttle closed until the vehicle speed is again at 35 mph or lower.

5) Stop vehicle and place in "Park", verify all instrument cluster warning indicators are off.

6) Cycle ignition switch "Off" and back "On", but do not immediately start engine.

7) Hook up StarScan and clear DTC's.

8) MDS calibration is now complete.

For Tips on AUTOSTICK and how it disables MDS see: Tip:151 Autostick mode turns off MDS.

Tip:46
Smart Window Recalibration Procedure

Symptom: Drivers side "smart window" stopped working and would go all the way up too making it hard to close the door.

Use the remote windows down option on remote.

USING the FOBIK, do the following:

1) Push the unlock once then again and hold it, the windows will go down.

2) Using door window button push/cycle window up button 10 times and down 3 times.

Windows should be recalibrated to open/close properly upon door exit/entry.

Also Note:

These windows have a learn procedure because the drop down feature when the door is opened. Sometimes they need to be retrained if the module looses power.

With the key on and the door shut and window up hold the window switch down all the way till the window bottoms out.

Do not release the button but hold in down for about 2-4 seconds. Then do the opposite for the up part holding the button also at the top.

This should retrain the window controller.

FILL OR ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Only Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Yea